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not with that attitude

@@custard-bunExactly!😂

Hmm - yes, you'd likely need to have a raised bed or create some drainage under the asparagus row.

Glad you like them!

Great question - I typically trim the tops / tips of the canes to a fairly uniform height. Two reason: 1) i want to stimulate growth / fruiting on the lower portion of the cane. 2) i want to fasten / tie the top of the cane to a horizontal wire to secure the top.

Hiya, it's a great question. Sorry , I don't have a suggestion for you.

Thanks and welcome Bill!

Hi Cyndi - great question. We have problems with aphids at times and I've done a video to address that: ruclips.net/video/6T_cUeD6mRc/видео.html

Great question . . . Pollen is BABY FOOD! So . . . The workers will default to storing it nearest to the eggs/larvae which the Queen is producing. So . . . the pollen should show up near where the Queen is busy. This should mean that nectar is primarily what you get on the other side of the Queen Excluder.

@@SustainableStace ok, another problem that workers might come by…going through the queen excluder to take pollen stores into the brood nest would be detrimental surely? The pollen would probably get knocked off the baskets when passing through the bee space. It’s also another exit to guard, especially in a long dearth

Great question! In the case of onions & shallots you want to harvest the bulb in the soil BEFORE it starts to get a bump/future flower up top. Once it's getting a bump/future flower up top it's already shifting its energy - it will drain the size / energy from the bulb in the soil and move that to the flower (future seeds) up top.

Agreed. The goal is balance of nutrients. And crop rotation is key to achieving this.

Good thought . . . . We are not cutting leaves, we are removing Scapes. Scapes are an extension of the stalk/trunk of the plant which wants to become flower and then seed. We leave the leaves alone. As the leaves start to dry and brown they become excellent indicators of the readiness of the bulb below to be harvested.

@@SustainableStace Now I understand thank you!

No they are not GMO - they are just hybrids of the best varieties for certain production characteristics.

It's a great question. My goal is to prepare a bed a few months before I'm wanting to plant it. Then, when it's time to plant, I plant. With those few months of waiting, the covered soil has time to be worked by the little friends who live in the soil to have it as stable and nutritious as possible for the incoming plants to be productive.

hello - i have so many questions . . . 1. is the variety possibly small? 2. is your pH suited to raspberries ie. around 6? 3. how insulated are the roots for hot and cold seasons? 4. is the bush otherwise healthy and producing strong, new canes each season? 5. is the bush vigorous, healthy, well-leafed etc?

Actually I really don't do anything with it besides try to pull the weeds out of it. I nothing about the care of raspberry bushes. I think they were always small but they are even smaller yet. Just starting to turn color. Would adding compost to it make a difference? Does it need trimmed back?

Hi Michele - it sounds like a very healthy plant! Congrats :) You're asking the right question(s). I suggest you continue to watch (not remove) the laterals. See how they produce this year. If there are lots of berries and the size of the berries seems excellent then i'd repeat. If, however, there are fewer berries and they are not sizeable, I'd suggest next season you remove some / most of the laterals to see if your production increases. In short, do next to nothing this year and see how it goes!

This recipe and application is meant for DORMANT season only to get the overwintering pests. The mixture wouldn't harm the fruit but it's not advisable to use this mix. Your pests are likely new arrivals with the spring and fruiting season. It would be good to know what they are. ie. aphids, mites, ants etc and then act accordingly. If you've got Aphids, I have a video to address them: ruclips.net/video/6T_cUeD6mRc/видео.html

Hi Betty, Thanks for the comment. I'm always striving to provide helpful content. Different viewers have different levels of knowledge and different challenges in their garden. It sounds like you wanted guidance on pruning. If you think your Parsley is growing great i.e. thriving and you think it needs pruning - you should prune it! I don't assume that Parsley should be pruned as you suggested. if it bolts and seeks to produce flowers and seeds, that can be a great thing for next year's garden. If you don't want it to bolt - YES, give those long, lanky shoots a pruning and you'll have slowed its efforts to go to seed! but . . . once a parsley wants to go to seed, it's usually better to let it do so. my advice, have multiple parsley plants and let the 'grow for it'

@@SustainableStace Thank you for your reply. Again, I was specifically looking for pruning to ensure regrowth. I did find the information I was looking for and I have new sprouts coming up. I live in the middle of NJ so I want to try to bring my herbs inside in the fall to have fresh all winter. I really appreciate you getting back to me. Thank you.

Check out AMP/Regenerative Farming videos ... no till is best, when you till the Soil, you are inviting disease and destroying the LIVING Humas layer which actually can set back your "field/garden"

Thanks for your comment - please explain your perspective . . . I recommend reading One Straw Revolution - a Japanese scientist who learned and shared what happens when farming moves to No Till! The areas of the world that grow the most plants and produce the most mass are forests and jungles. They are never tilled and are the most productive. All living things needs a protective layer / cover i.e. our skin ! When we 'break' the protective layer of soil it suffers trauma and seeks to protect itself from further scarring by growing weeds. This typically starts an unending combat cycle between gardener and soil. There are better ways!

Yes, seascape is commonly grown where we are. I don't regularly track the varieties I grow - i could do a better job of that!

Oh, I've tried. We cannot get peas to grow from seed with direct sowing. The seeds get eaten or the shoots do. Either way, we've learned that transplant is the only way we can make it happen here with peas!

There are many, many types of Nematodes.

Sounds like success! Well done.